Hand Embroidery in India- An art that weaves India into one

An art is a form of self-expression and when that is combined with sheer hard work and patience what comes out is a pure reflection of the artist’s aspirations, hidden desires and beliefs. Hand Embroidery can be one of the best examples of one such art that dates right back to the Iron Age where the seeds of the first forms of such an art were sown. With the new and advanced civilizations Embroidery as an art was given due recognition and it spread across various parts of the globe like Egypt, Babylon, Spain, Sicily and other European countries. Each country has its own unique style of embroidery depicting their history, cultures and traditions. India too been a part of this rich art. Thanks to Indias Cultural Diversity where a total of more than 500 languages exist it is difficult to comprehend the depth and richness of art that is present in Modern Day India. Spanning across the country  from Rajasthan to Bengal, Kashmir to Karnataka , Kerala and Andhra, Gujrat to the North East  hand embroidery in India has evolved in multifaceted forms. Phulkari Embroidery, Kantha, Kathi, Rabari, Chikankari, Kashmiri, Kasuthi -  the list is endless. Each one has a story of its own..

Kantha Embroidery of Bengal is famous for its embroidered quilts. Kantha itself means patched or quilted cloth. It involves simple running stitch. Multiple layers of cloth are stitched together which are generally made of old saris, dhotis and other precious silks and muslins. Kantha is used for multiple purposes like quilts, shawl, pillow covers, handkerchiefs, book covers and even toilet accessories. The process of recycling unused clothes and turning it into an artistic good is an art by itself. Artists design various motifs which can be form of god, goddesses, flowers, animals and other geometric patterns. Depending on the form of product Kantha is further subdivided into various other forms such as Oaar kantha for pillow covers, Lep Kantha for quilts and Rumal Kantha for handkerchiefs and so on. While Kantha embroidery Orginated in Bengal , different forms of Kantha embroidery are also practised in Several states of the North East especially Assam. While the essence and techniques remain the same , there are subtle differences in these diverse forms from different states.

Kutch Embroidery is another famous form of art in Gujarat. The embroidery is done on every day attire and other Objects of Everyday use. These include traditional dresses, blankets, quilts and even covers for animal backs, horns and forehead. The striking feature of this embroidery are the  colourful designs. Popular colours include green, purple, yellow, saffron, white. The embroidery also has a certain Degree of Grandeur by the use of tiny mirrors in various shapes and sizes. Chain and open stitch is often used to give it a precise appearance.

Chikankari is native to the capital city of Uttar Pradesh i.e Lucknow. The word Chikankari comes from the Persian word Chakeen which means intricate patterns made on fabric. It is believed to be introduced first by Emperor  Jahangir’s wife and is still one of the most famous decoration styles in Lucknow. It is a white thread embroidery done on a variety of fabrics such as silk, net, muslin etc. The typical process of Chikankari includes Designing, Engraving, Block Printing, Embroidery, Washing and finishing. The patterns and designs are created using different types of stitches and thickness of threads. In  total there are about 36 different types of stitches.

Kasuti Embroidery is a form of embroidery practiced in Karnataka especially North Karnataka . It’s name is derived from the words Kai and Suti meaning hand and cotton. The Kasuti work is very intricate involving more than a thousand stitches by hand. The handicrafts development cooperation of Karnataka holds a GI for the protection of this art form. Kasuti is found in a variety of Ilkal saris –Both Silk and Cotton.

Sujni Embroidery is a traditional to Bihar. It is usually made by stitching new cloth over various old layers of cloth. The embroidery includes flowers, birds, creepers and sakhi designs. The main Stitch here like Kantha is the running Stitch. Products includes quilts, bed sheets , jackets etc.

Sozni Embroidery is another traditional art form of Kashmir. Kashmir is famous for its delicate and precise embroidery. An apt example of sozni work applications  would be the embroidery seen on pashmina shawls and phirans. It is so skilfully done that each side of the shawl has a motif of different colour. Sozni Embroidery is done so skilfully that one single motif appears in different colours on the two sides of cloth on which the embroidery is done. Consequently there is no reverse side to the Garment.

Banjara embroidery is an art form of Andhra Pradesh practiced by the nomads and gypsies. Banjara work can be identified by their vivid colours , geometric patterns and mirror work. Use of shells, beads , mirrors is also done generously. Products of Banjara embroidery include kurtas, bags, cushion covers, blouse pieces and bed sheets.

Applique work comes from the famous town of Pipli in Odisha, halfway between Puri and Bhusbaneswar. The work includes patchwork of various brightly coloured birds, animals, motifs on contrasting backgrounds. The subjects include natural, mythological and astral characters. Applique work in different forms is again not limited to Odisha today and one can see variations of the same being practised in Rajasthan, Gujrat etc.

Embroidery has shown the world that beauty can be created by the means of just a thread and a needle…….

Contributed by Antorik Roy for Banna Creations